Indesit washing machine malfunctions and do-it-yourself repairs

Timely repair of Indesit washing machines at home at the first sign of breakdown allows you to prevent more complex defects. Household appliances of this brand are reliable, functional units that can break due to careless handling, use of low-quality products, or power failures. Diagnostics and repair of brand washing machines is included in the service package.

The company's employees have sufficient experience and skills to eliminate any, including hidden, malfunctions of Indesit washing machines. Customers have the opportunity to call a technician to clean the drain system, replace the pump and filter, sealing collar, seals and shock absorbers. If complex repairs of an engine, electronics unit, or other components and elements are required, contacting TekhRemByt is also the best option in terms of price and quality ratio. To perform the work, only spare parts from proven and reliable suppliers are used.

Drain pump failure

The most common malfunction in Indesit ACS. Its causes are failure of the pump motor or foreign objects entering the pump: coins, buttons, pins, screws, cufflinks, bra wires, etc. Foreign objects block the operation of the pump or break its impeller.

*Parts are not included in the price and are paid additionally.

Common breakdowns

So, let’s look at the main breakdowns of the Indesit washing machine and do-it-yourself repairs.

As the experience of service center engineers shows, in 80% of cases, a malfunction of the Indesit washing machine is caused by one of the following malfunctions:

1. The heating element fails: if in other “washing machines”, for example, Korean Samsungs, the heater is equipped with a special coating against the formation of scale, then in Indesit they prefer not to bother with this matter. As a result, the heating element quickly becomes covered with a heat-insulating “coat” of salt deposits, as a result of which it overheats and loses its functionality.
2. The power filter burns out: a very common problem for machines of this brand. Generally speaking, the surge protector in Indesit washing machines is a kind of weak link. There are many cases where even in new units this element turned out to be defective. Often the filter has to be changed after 3-4 years of operation.
3. Bearings break: even owners of mid-price cars run the risk of encountering this problem. The procedure for replacing a bearing is fraught with some difficulties due to the inaccessibility of the unit.
4. The control unit fails: failure statistics for this element began to improve only in 2012, when cars began to be equipped with a modernized version of control units. But, despite their higher reliability, they also act up quite often.
5. The electric motor sensor has tripped.

If the quality of the electric motors themselves can be considered quite tolerable, then some of the parts necessary for their operation cannot boast of such dignity. First of all, this applies to capacitors, which often have to be replaced.

Causes of breakdowns

Indesit spends a lot of time and resources on producing innovative models with rich functionality. On sale you can find washing machines with top and bottom loading. In most cases, the cause of breakdown is non-compliance with the operating rules of the equipment. In the instructions for the washing machine, the manufacturer describes the features of using the equipment.

Most often, the cause of the breakdown is a simple clogged filter or drain hose. In this case, it becomes impossible to supply water or remove it from the system. You can carry out such repairs yourself at home, without the involvement of a specialist. To eliminate the problem, it is enough to clear the blockage.

Other reasons include:

• improper operation;
• lack of timely maintenance;
• negligence on the part of the child;
• presence of a foreign object inside the machine;
• starting without water.

Failure of the hatch locking device (UBL)

The control module (electronic controller) is the “brain” of the washing machine, which controls its operation. It contains all washing programs. It looks like a microcircuit with a bunch of radio components. Most electronic components are sensitive to voltage surges. Moisture getting on the control board is another common cause of module failure.

In UBL, most often, the thermal tablet that heats the thermal plate fails: the tablet melts, sticks to the bimetal, or simply collapses. Less commonly, the bimetallic strip itself loses flexibility and reacts worse to heat.

* Spare parts are not included in the price and must be paid separately.

Malfunctions of Indesit (Ariston) boards

• The washing machine does not turn on:

EVO-II models wisl 103, wisl 83, wisl 82, wisl 102:

The power supply provides voltages of 5 V and 12 V to power the elements and components that make up the controller. The IP includes a 22uF capacitor at 400V, an optocoupler type SF46156-2, diode 1 and 2. Microcircuit HD6433662С01Н with firmware.

Arcadia board - models (WIN - WIB):

The SMPS produces 12V. It consists of: protective diode D1, output rectifier and filter D2 and C1, pulse transformer, integrated controller. A voltage of 3.3V is used to power the processor.

• All control panel lights are flashing, no error code is displayed:

Malfunction of the IP and its circuit. We check the presence of voltage 5 and 12 Volts, electrolytic capacitors, and the microcontroller itself.
What to look for in the power supply is the swollen capacitors C17, C16, C20.

We select new capacitors, maybe 1000 uF. We take a soldering iron and change them.

• Violation of the execution logic of a given program:

The EEPROM chip needs to be flashed or replaced.

• Error code F12:

Check the integrity of the connections between the power board connections and the indication board.

To convince us, we take an oscilloscope and look at the signals on the buses between the modules: ground, +5, +12, and two signal signals with identical bursts of pulses.

If error F12 occurs, try the board, alcohol, or sushi, but 99.99% the processor is dead and will need to be replaced.

In no way am I praising or scolding INDESIT, but disposability and miserable salaries force us to repair something that would seem to work for a long time or be thrown away without a shadow of regret! A striking example of this is the SMA (automatic washing machine) Indesit, where to replace the bearing/seal you have to cut the drum, and the ECU dies for some unknown reason. After a long search on the Internet, I came across the idea of ​​​​creating a universal control unit for washing machines, and then its implementation in the Middle Kingdom. Our dealers offer this set for 5 thousand, in France from 73 euros, and for those who are not too lazy to look - from 1500 rubles. I didn’t find a normal description of the installation of this board online, so I’m posting my experience: The SXY3388 device itself:

The universal module is not suitable for three-phase and capacitor-started electric motors. Only a commutator motor and necessarily only with a tacho winding.

Thermistor

(temperature sensor) is not included in the kit, it is needed for 5 kOhm, so you must immediately order it either separately or buy it from SMA VEKO. With the standard one at 15 kOhm it immediately writes an error but erases it without turning on the heater.

Water level sensor

from the kit (
pressostat
) or not rebuilt (no sealing paint or paraffin filling) or rebuilt at random: it fills almost half a tank of water in the washing mode. Why so much? — the water doesn’t warm up well, which means it doesn’t wash well, you need more powder, etc. That's why I left the Indesit pressure switch.

Jumpers

According to the manual, JP1-2 should change the speed of the pump and spin motor, but I didn’t find this, although I tried. Jumper JP3 simply does not turn on the thermistor error, but also does not allow the heating element to turn on, so the assurance in the manual that it corrects the tremoristor for 10 and 20 kOhm did not work for me. To control the operation of the heating element, I drilled the START button and glued a green neon there.

The heater control with a 5 kOhm thermistor works correctly - it turns off when the water level is low, and turns on after topping up.

Water fill valve

in this SMA: below the rinsing valve, the small compartment is designated M, above the very first valve from the water inlet of the large compartment of the powder box (B).
Accordingly, the small connection is second on the left on the ECU block, the large one is next to the pump. There is also a connection to the hot water valve. Apparently, this is why all control modes start with economical - COLD WATER. (I think that you can install 3 valves and if you have a centralized hot water supply at home, it will wash without consuming electricity to heat the water.)

DIY diagnostics of the Indesit washing machine

The manufacturer took care of the consumer and provided a test mode for launching the equipment. This is the easiest way to check whether it is working normally or if there is a malfunction. The error code is displayed on the electronic display. The operating instructions contain a table with a complete breakdown of the codes, from which any user can understand what exactly is wrong with the system.

If the model does not have a display, then you should pay attention to the combination of light-up diodes located on the front panel. Only the top row matters. It is located above four buttons responsible for additional functionality. The table shows all possible errors.

To accurately determine the cause of the breakdown, you should first wait until the corresponding code appears on the display. Programmed self-diagnosis allows the equipment to accurately identify the problem. For example, if an error occurs with the heating element, then the inscription F07 will be visible on the electronic display. It also happens that the self-diagnosis function is not provided. In this case, an external inspection of the equipment will be required.

Almost always, extraneous noise and knocking indicate a breakdown. For example, a hum when the washing machine is running indicates a problem with the bearing. It becomes especially audible during spinning. When the heating element is broken, the hatch from the equipment remains cold, leaving powder and stains on the laundry. If smoke and an unpleasant smell of plastic appear, then the problem is much more serious. This is one of those cases when you should definitely contact a specialist.

To repair yourself, you need to determine the direction to look for the breakdown. If this is a mechanically controlled washing machine, then you need to pay attention to signs characteristic of certain malfunctions.

For example, if a leak appears from the outside, you should look for a violation in the connection of the solenoid valve, check the integrity of the hatch cuff, and monitor the tightness of the drain paths.

Complete “silence” of the machine indicates a breakdown in the electronics or a broken contact. If the lights come on, but the rotation does not start, then there is probably a problem with the engine. Stagnant water refers to a faulty pump or a clogged filter. If everything works, but washing occurs in cold water, then there is a problem with the heating element or the accompanying temperature sensor.

Repairing an Indesit washing machine with your own hands is easier if it has an electronic control that has a self-diagnostic module that can recognize the problem area. The equipment reports a fault found with a code on the display. It consists of the letter F and several numbers. Here are the codes for which it is possible to troubleshoot the problem yourself:

• 02 - elementary overload, which prevents the engine from rotating the drum, or bearing failure;
• 03 - failure of the heating element or the temperature sensor itself;
• 04 - no accurate data on the liquid level (clogged inlet);
• 05 - stagnation of water due to pump failure or blockage in communications;
• 07 - no liquid heating;
• 08 — heating element short circuit;
• 10 — level sensor is broken;
• 13 — drying mode is broken;
• 16 - bearing failure, drum overload or poorly closed door (in devices with vertical loading);
• 17 — UBL is broken or the front hatch is poorly closed.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with: The washing machine does not spin the drum

If one of the above codes comes on, you can set yourself up for independent repairs. If other errors are displayed, you will have to call a technician. Next, we will consider ways to troubleshoot an Indesit washing machine with your own hands in two categories: mechanical breakdowns and failure of electronic equipment.

Water does not enter the washing machine

With Indesit washing machines, quite often a situation arises when water does not flow into the tank. This often happens when owners forget to close the hatch, open the water supply tap, and also due to the lack of proper pressure in the system. These reasons can be eliminated independently.

The lack of water can also be caused by more serious faults:

• The strainer at the entrance to the machine is clogged with dirt or oxidation products.
• Malfunctions in the control module.
• As a result of a malfunction in the hatch lock, the electronics do not receive a corresponding signal to close it.
• Exhaust valve failure.
• Failure of the pressure switch - water height sensor, as a result, there are no signals to supply water to the control unit.

All these shortcomings can be eliminated independently. However, most often you have to turn to the services of experienced specialists, since detailed diagnostics are required before repairs.

Motor brush wear

Graphite brushes are a component of the commutator motor that ensures its rotation. They transmit voltage between a stationary stator and a moving rotor. When the brushes wear out, weak contact occurs between them and the commutator, the electric motor loses power, jerks or does not rotate at all.

*Parts are not included in the price and must be paid separately.

A common breakdown for Indesit washing machines older than 5 years. The bearings are destroyed and prevent the drum from rotating.

* Spare parts are not included in the price and must be paid separately.

The main reasons are breaks or interturn short circuits in the stator or rotor windings. It is rare to encounter defects in the collector lamellas, for example, their peeling.

* Spare parts are not included in the price and are paid additionally.

The drum of vertical loading machines is supported on two axle shafts with bearings. These bearings are located on the outside of the washer tank. When replacing them, first of all disconnect all the wires. Then we dismantle the linings located on the sides of the machine drum. Under these pads there are calipers with bearings.

First of all, we replace the bearing located on the side where the pulley is missing. Next, remove the caliper. The thread on this side should be right-handed, so unscrew it counterclockwise. After dismantling this element, we replace the oil seal and bearing.

On the reverse side, you must first remove the drive belt. When the belt is removed, remove the pulley, as well as the grounding block.

On the reverse side of the caliper there is a left-hand thread. This means that you need to unscrew it clockwise. We clean the installation sites of new bearings and then lubricate them. Next, the calipers are installed and assembly is performed.

In some cases, it may be necessary to disassemble the machine tank. Then we unscrew the screws that secure its cover, and then carefully separate it at the soldering points. Reassembling the tank is performed in the same way as for front-loading machines. The rest of the maintenance and repair work on top-loading machines is performed in almost the same way as for front-loading washing machines.

Leaks that can be eliminated without disassembling the housing

All of the following types of leaks can be eliminated without disassembling the machine body:

• The drain filter is leaking. In this case, you need to check the condition of the seal and also check the tightness of the filter. If the drain filter is dry, then move on to the top cover.
• Deformation/wear of the upper door seal. If a puddle appears under the machine, then first of all we check and repair this particular rubber seal. When you remove the control panel of the machine, you can notice a coating of rust on the body.

Such a leak can cause serious problems, such as repairs or replacement of expensive parts. Therefore, we fix the leak as quickly as possible.

In this case, you don’t have to change the entire seal, but just put rubber in the area of ​​the leak. As a result, the seal will rise slightly and, therefore, the tightness will be restored.

It should be noted that dismantling the control panel is a fairly simple task. To do this, unscrew the screws on the sides.

The next step of the test is to remove the side panels. To do this, unscrew the screws located on the rear wall. Next, you need to pull the bottom edge a little, and then move it down and back. Once the side panels are removed, the front can be removed. After all, there will be access to the screws with which the front wall is secured. As a result, access to the internal components of the machine will be gained. Next, we look for leaks inside the washer.

1. Checking the water tube connection on the fill valve. If the connection is not reliable, then we carry out the repair ourselves - we dismantle the tube, lubricate it with silicone, and then we need to put it in its original place and tighten the clamp. Next, we check the integrity of the entire rubber tube.
2. We inspect the rubber pipe connected to the washing machine tank. If there are traces of leaks, then we carry out repairs - dismantle the pipe, seal it with silicone, and then install it in its old place.
3. Check the reliability of the drain hose and drain pipe. If there are traces of leaks, then we perform similar repair actions.
4. You should also check the condition of the rubber cuff located at the top. We check the fastening of the clamp holding it in place.
5. Check the tank for leaks. The screws that connect the tank may have become loose over time. In this case, we tighten them, but not too much so as not to curl them. A small hole may also appear in the tank body of the machine. It should be soldered carefully.
6. Water may also be leaking from the drum bearing seal. In this case, we will most likely replace the bearing as well.

Preparation

It is worth remembering that equipment can only be disassembled if its warranty period has expired. Until this moment, the service center is engaged in servicing. Self-diagnosis should begin by inspecting the surge protector. It is not difficult to find it in the design of the washing machine, since it is the electrical wire that goes to it.

To work, you will need a tester that will determine the presence of power in the network. If there is no electricity at the contacts, it becomes clear that the cause of the breakdown lies in the surge protector. If there is power, then it is worth checking other important components. At this stage it is easy to identify even the most complex breakdown.

Malfunction of the heating element (heating element)

Over time, impurities contained in the water are deposited on the heating element, threads, fabric particles and other debris are collected. Because of this, the thermal conductivity of the heating element decreases, which forces it to work more intensively. As a result:

• the TEN coil burns out and the machine does not heat the water;
• or the heater body burns out or rots, the coil comes into contact with water, and the washing machine knocks out the machine.

Troubleshooting the main components of the machine

It is worth troubleshooting the main components of the equipment yourself only if you have enough experience and knowledge in this area. A person who does not know how to properly disassemble and repair a washing machine can turn a small problem into a serious breakdown. If you have enough experience, you can fix it yourself:

• stuffing box;
• motor;
• hatch cuff;
• thermostat;
• tray;
• crosspiece;
• pipe branch;
• capacitor;
• fuse;
• tachogenerator;
• a heating element.

We suggest you read Why the washing machine does not dry clothes

Drain pump

Normal operation of equipment is impossible without draining and taking water. After each cycle, the laundry inside the drum remains dry, and dirty water is removed into the sewer system. It is the pump that plays an important role in the described process. Before you start changing this unit, you should make sure that the cause of the breakdown lies precisely in it. By the operation of the automatic machine, you can easily determine when the pump has failed.

Among the main signs:

• the corresponding error code appears on the display;
• the washing cycle was unfinished, and the equipment stopped with a tank in which water remained;
• water is not constantly removed from the machine;
• it is impossible to turn off the pump.

To replace the pump you will need to remove it. To do this you will need to prepare a set of tools:

• slotted and Phillips screwdrivers;
• pliers;
• multimeter to measure power.

Be sure to follow safety precautions when working with a washing machine. The power must be turned off and the inlet valve closed. The remaining liquid is drained. At the same time, you can inspect the impeller. At the bottom of the front panel there is a small slot where the filter is located. It is unscrewed counterclockwise. Hair and threads on the impeller are removed manually.

If two LEDs on the panel start to light up simultaneously during the washing mode, or the equipment stops without finishing the cycle and drains the water, then there are problems with switching modes. Error code F08 may appear on the electronic display. In this case, we are talking about the heating element relay sticking. Another reason is the pressure switch, which freezes in filling mode. To cope with the error, you need to do a little diagnostics and inspect:

• board, namely contacts to connector J3;
• check the pressure switch with a multimeter;
• wiring that goes from J3 to the pressure switch.

Most often, replacing the heating element, board or pressure switch can eliminate the breakdown. You can change the heating element yourself, without the help of a specialist, since it is easy to access. To do this you will need to remove the panel at the back. It, in turn, is attached to several bolts. Experts advise checking the heating element before replacing it.

Drum bearings

One of the disadvantages of Indesit equipment is the small tank in weight. This feature often becomes the main reason why bearings in such washing machines quickly fail. It is impossible to disassemble the unit yourself, the tank is sealed. Experts advise contacting experienced repairmen who will completely replace it.

Tank shock absorbers

Control module

Indesit is reliable equipment with a high-quality control module. The manufacturer took care to equip it with a special protection system. This unit is particularly sensitive to moisture and voltage changes in the network. When a module error appears on the electronic panel, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics and pay attention to the following points:

• whether condensation has appeared on the current-carrying wires;
• Are the contacts securely fastened?
• whether traces of oxidation have appeared;
• is there any blockage in the filter or hoses?

The inlet valve works on the same principle as a regular valve through which water is supplied. If it breaks, you can find out about the malfunction by the following signs:

• a code with the corresponding error appears on the display;
• the tank is filled with water, this process does not stop;
• when the equipment starts working, there is no sound indicating that water is being drawn into the tank.

Before repairing the solenoid valve, you will need to look at the filter. Here it is presented in the form of a mesh, which is designed to trap small debris, including hair and threads. To get to the valve, you need to remove the top cover of the washing machine - it is held in place by several screws.

The element may not always show external signs of damage. If they are missing, the part must be removed for a thorough inspection. The hoses leading to the valve will need to be disconnected. Metal clamps can be loosened using pliers. The valve may also be clogged. You should attach a hose to it above the sink and let the water run. When the element is in good condition, it easily allows water to pass through. The presence of a leak indicates the need to replace the valve.

Electric motor

Indesit washing machines are unpretentious, which is why they are popular. But even with such equipment, the electric motor can fail over time, in which case expensive repairs are required. In any washing machine, the rotation of the drum is ensured by an electric motor. Older models used a belt drive, while newer models used a direct drive. Regardless of design, any engine is susceptible to failure. Among the main malfunctions:

• brushes are worn out;
• winding break;
• failure of the collector lamellas.

As a rule, brushes wear out when equipment is used for many years. You can determine the breakdown by sparks from the engine or by their size, since they wear off and, accordingly, become smaller. A good part has no chips or cracks. If you purchase a replacement spare part, it is desirable that it be original. Such spare parts have an increased safety margin. You can make repairs yourself.

As for the break, it can occur in the stator or rotor winding. The best solution in this particular case would be to completely replace the part. Rewinding a motor is sometimes even more expensive than buying a part. To determine whether the lamellas are worn out, you need to inspect the manifold. When burrs appear on their surface, contacts break or detachment occurs, sparks appear.

Often the user has to deal with a situation where the drum rotates too slowly or does not rotate at all. This is a consequence of a short circuit that occurs between the turns in the winding. The cause could be overheating of the engine housing, which is why the thermostat worked.

The temperature at which the electric motor must operate should not exceed 80 C. To check this assumption, it is necessary to use a tester. It is attached to the lamellas. The resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.4 Ohms. The cause of a short circuit is often a violation of the integrity of the winding.

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Network filter

When a surge protector fails, it must be replaced. There is no point in repairing it. However, experts remind that even a new filter may not work for long, even if there were no large power surges in the network. The main cause of the malfunction is not the surge, but the accumulation of condensate, which causes a short circuit.

If the locking lid lock breaks, the washing machine simply will not turn on, since the system does not receive a signal that the door is sealed. The manufacturer has thought out the design of the locking device in a similar way, so that there are contacts at its ends. If they are open, then there is no power to the motor.

In most cases it is necessary to replace the element, but sometimes simply cleaning it is enough. It also happens that the handle is broken. You can repair it yourself, you just need to read the instructions on how to do it correctly. If the lock does not work, then there may be an error in the control unit.

Useful tips

It is not always enough to lubricate the contacts with silicone and clear out the blockage to restore the functionality of the washing machine. The user must listen to the sound of the equipment. The appearance of knocking and humming indicates a breakdown of the shock absorbers. When there is not enough lubrication, an unpleasant creak appears when the drum rotates.

Experts warn the user that if the failure is related to shock absorbers or dampers, using the equipment is strictly prohibited. If a person wants to save money, he can simply change the rubber tab that is on the shock absorber. Such repairs do not guarantee that the equipment will work correctly afterwards. Most likely, you will soon have to face the same problem again.

The powder compartment should be cleaned from time to time. Pay special attention to the pump, which plays an important role in the washing machine system. Of the other nodes, it experiences the most load, and therefore is one of the first to fail.

Experienced technicians can detect a breakdown by ear. The pump may make a loud noise during operation or may not make any sound at all. Before replacing the element, you will need to make sure that the water drainage system is free of debris. Not only the filter, but also the hose and impeller must be inspected. If these measures do not help eliminate the problem, then the only solution is to replace the pump.

It also happens that there is no problem as such. Lack of water supply or too little pressure is a consequence of lack of water in the tap. The problem may be with the inlet hose or its filter. If the water does not drain well, the cause is almost always a clog.

To learn how to replace bearings on an Indesit washing machine with a glued tank, see the following video.

Broken or stretched drive belt

The motor transmits rotation to the drum using a drive belt. When the belt breaks or falls off the pulley, the Indesit washing machine works as usual (motor noise is heard, the machine fills and drains water), but the drum does not spin. There are also cases when the belt stretches and slips during the spin cycle. As a result, the machine does not spin.

Advantages of "RemBytTech"

• Diagnostics and visit of a specialist are free. Only the work required to replace the electronic module (or control unit) and the cost of the unit itself are subject to payment if you ordered a turnkey replacement.
• Masters with over 5 years of experience. We do not skimp on personnel and recruit the most qualified specialists, with experience of 5 years or more, and only on the recommendations of colleagues.
• Replacement within 24 hours after the call. We change the module at home within 24 hours after your request. The washing machine will be in service again on the day of the call or the next.
• Daily work schedule from 8-00 to 22-00. We work without holidays and weekends. We adapt to the client, we arrive when it is convenient for you.
• Discount program. We give a discount on repair work. Pensioners - 10% on a passport or pension certificate, low-income citizens - 5% on a Muscovite social card.
• 1 year warranty. Only for repair work if you bought the board yourself. Or for work and parts, if you ordered.

We understand the structure of Indesit washing machines

To repair an Indesit washing machine with your own hands, you need to understand its structure and the relationship of some parts to others. This will help more accurately determine the location of the problem and save time on disassembling components that are not involved in the problem. Indesit machines come with vertical and front loading. The latter are the most common. They include the following important components:

• top cover;
• front and rear detachable panels;
• drum (steel or plastic);
• a panel with control buttons, behind which the programmer or module is located;
• an electric motor that provides rotation during washing and spinning;
• a tank in which water accumulates and a drum with holes for collecting liquid rotates;
• inlet valve;
• drain filter;
• pump for pumping water;
• heating heating element;
• speed and liquid level sensors;
• shock absorbers and counterweight for stability;
• compartment for powder and conditioner;
• torque transmitting belt and pulley system.

There are machines without a belt drive, where the engine is made in the form of a huge tablet located on the same axis with the drum. Such devices have fewer mechanical components and lower vibration, so they break less often, but are more expensive.

Household appliances with mechanical controls are easier to operate, but if there is a malfunction in the program, the programmer itself needs to be replaced, which can only be done by a master. In machines with a display and electronic control, reconfiguration is available, but it requires an experienced specialist and computer equipment.

All other types of repairs to the Indesit washing machine can be done with your own hands, but to do this you need to correctly identify the breakdown.

Malfunctions of a vertical washing machine

Many malfunctions of vertical machines are also relevant for front ones. However, top-loading machines also have faults that are unique to them.

These breakdowns are associated with the design features of the machine and the location of the components. And the main feature of the repair is access to the internal elements of the vertical washing machine by dismantling the side panels.

Fill valve failure

The fill valve (FV) consists of an electromagnetic coil and a membrane, which opens when voltage is applied to the valve. The electromagnetic coil usually fails. In modern models, Indesit KEN consists of two sections: one section of the valve is responsible for the supply of water during washing, the second - for the supply during rinsing.

The hatch cuff is torn

Constant vibrations, friction and variable loads do their job. The rubber seal simply wears out. Another reason is washing things with sharp fittings. Belt buckles, decorative zippers, and even sharp objects left in pockets can damage the cuff and cause it to leak.

*Parts are not included in the price and must be paid separately.

Why do the loading hatch flaps open spontaneously during operation?

This may occur due to an imbalance in the drum of the machine. Such a machine malfunction can lead to serious consequences.

The opened flaps will come into contact with the heating element, and this will lead to breakage of the latter. The drum will become blocked and may be damaged. If the tank and drum are damaged, they may require complete replacement.

But this, of course, is an extreme case. If only the heating element fails, it can be easily replaced with a new one. The process of replacing this element is carried out in the same way as for front-facing machines.

Bearings may also become unusable. Changing bearings in top-loading machines is a little different from the same process in front-loading washing machines. Replacing bearings for washing machines of this type will cost from 3,000 rubles, these prices are offered by the Ob-Service service center in Novosibirisk.