The washing machine lock does not lock: how to close the door (hatch, door)

Operating errors, hard tap water, sudden power surges lead to the fact that sooner or later the Samsung washing machine fails.

One of the signs of a malfunctioning household appliance is a flashing or constant light on the lock indicator.

A detailed study of what to do when the lock is on or blinking will help you quickly return the washing machine to working order.

The lock handle on the hatch door is broken

The washing machine has turned off, the user decides to take out the laundry, but the handle suddenly breaks and the door does not open. Trying to open the door by force can lead to even worse consequences. It is better to use the “emergency door opening” (if such a function is available), a lock or tools.

What to do?

You should buy a new handle and install it after removing the old one, this can be done as follows:

• Remove the door from the front mountings using a screwdriver.
• Next, unscrew all the bolts around the perimeter and disconnect the halves of the structure
• Pry up the glass and remove it
• After this, you should remove the metal rod on which the handle is held. To do this, you need to push a nail or other thin object into the bolt and carefully pry it off.
• After removing the handle and its components, install a new one, performing all the described steps in reverse order.

Video instruction: replacing the hatch handle on an Electrolux EWC1050

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How to fix the situation

If the door does not close tightly, and after inspection you find that the tongue or guide is misaligned, you need to replace it.

What should I do if the SMA display says that the door is not closed? This means the electronic lock is not working. Indicators on mechanical panels may flash. The UBL device needs to be replaced.

• Open the hatch door and unscrew the two bolts securing the device.
• Bend back the sealing rubber.
• Remove the clamp and tuck the cuff inside the drum.
• Take out the UBL device and disconnect the wiring from it.

Inspect the wiring. If burnt parts are visible, it needs to be replaced. The UBL is checked for resistance with a multimeter. If the lock is faulty, replace it in reverse order.

Checking the removed element

First, look at the instructions for the machine and find the UBL electrical circuit there to study the location of the contacts. Having understood where the neutral and common terminals are, and where the phase is, turn on the multimeter and switch it to resistance measurement mode. One ohmmeter probe should be applied to the neutral contact of the blocker, the second - to the phase. If a three-digit number appears on the device display, it means the locking device has passed the test.

Next, the probes are applied to the neutral and common contacts of the UBL. Zero or one displayed on the multimeter display will indicate a malfunction of the lock. The blocker cannot be repaired and will need to be replaced.

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How to solve problems with the electronic module

You figured out the lock of the washing machine, inspected it, and found no damage. How to determine that the cause of the malfunction is in the module:

• The door blocks, but does not erase.
• The “Lock” indicator does not light up on the display.

If any element or triac of the module burns out, then any part of the washing machine may fail. For example, a UBL may work properly, but the control unit does not recognize its signals. Or the triac of the fill valve is faulty, so water intake does not start.

Carefully inspect the board and its wiring at the time of scorching. Let's look at how to get to the module, but it is not recommended to repair it yourself.

• After disconnecting the SMA from the power supply, remove the top cover from the housing.
• Remove the dispenser tray by pressing the latch in the center.
• Remove the screws holding the control panel.
• Unlock the latches and detach the panel from the body.

• When disconnecting the wiring, inspect it for damage.
• To remove the board from the panel, you must also release the latches.

If you do not see any signs of damage, take the board to a service center. They will carry out professional diagnostics and repairs.

As you can see, some breakdowns can be fixed on your own. But there are situations when you cannot do without a specialist - do not take risks and entrust complex repairs to specialists.

Diagnostics and repair of the lock on your own

To check the serviceability of the lock, it will need to be removed. Necessary:

• Unplug the washing machine.
• Open the hatch, bend the cuff, pry up the clamp and remove it.
• Pull the cuff to the side to gain access to the lock.
• Unscrew the fasteners securing the device.
• Disconnect the wiring and pull out the UBL.

This method is suitable if the door opens. Otherwise, you need to open the base panel on the front of the washing machine and find the emergency cable for opening the hatch. It is usually yellow or red and is located near the filter. If the cable is missing, you need to unscrew the fasteners holding the top cover, remove it, and then put your hand between the body and the tank, find the lock latch by touch and unlock it. Now you can open the door and begin removing the UBL.

Now you can start checking the blocker using a multimeter. To determine where the neutral and common contacts are located, you will need a diagram of the lock. Hatch locking devices are produced by various companies that arrange the contacts in their own way. Without knowing the diagram, it is impossible to understand the contacts and diagnose the lock. You can find the diagram on the Internet.

At home, you can only check the thermoelement that heats the plates. To do this you need:

• Set up the multimeter to measure resistance.
• Find the neutral and phase contacts and install probes on them.
• If a three-digit number appears on the tester display, this indicates that the blocker is working.
• Now you need to move the probes to the neutral and common contacts.
• If one or zero appears on the screen, the device is broken.

If the blocker is working properly, you need to inspect it for mechanical damage or manufacturing defects.

To replace, you need to purchase a new lock. This can be done at the manufacturer's service center, in a specialized store, or via the Internet. To avoid mistakes when purchasing a part, you need to tell the seller the make and model of the washing machine.

What types of breakdowns happen?

The reasons leading to the blocking of the hatch are divided into two types:

• Electronic - the machine does not block the hatch as a result of breakdowns inside the device. Such malfunctions can be caused by failure of the UBL, small debris or foreign objects getting into the locking device, or breakdown of the head control module. If the malfunction is related to the electronics, the door will slam shut easily, but the hatch will not lock and the washing process itself will not begin.
• Mechanical - external damage associated with breakage of the hatch handle, deformation of the guide plate or lock tongue. In this case, the door will not close at all or will close but not lock properly.

To simplify troubleshooting, manufacturers have included a list of error codes in the program. So, if the lock in an INDESIT or ARISTON car does not work, then F17 is displayed on the display, in ELECTROLUX - E40, LG - DE.

How can you tell if the closing sensor is broken?

Knowing the principle of operation of the door lock, it will not be difficult for the user to guess about its malfunction. The behavior of the automatic machine will immediately reveal the problem. As already mentioned, you can suspect a problem with the locking mechanism if:

• the door lock cannot be removed long after the wash is completed;
• the machine issues a fault code corresponding to this problem;
• The “brain” does not block the door after selecting the desired mode and starting the cycle.

The hatch locking device ensures the tightness of the system - the mechanism will not allow a person to open the door when there is water in the tank.

An alarm bell will ring when you need to press on the machine door every time you start the wash to activate the UBL. This indicates a weakening of the lock - it is better to check immediately and, if necessary, replace the lock.

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• Share your opinion - leave a comment

Repairing the locking mechanism

If the door does not close tightly, then there is suspicion of deformation of the latch lever. More precisely, irregularities appear on the part, which prevent the hatch from being fixed in the locking mechanism. It's easy to fix the situation:

• remove the door according to the algorithm described above;
• unfold the hatch with the latch towards you;
• take a file and grind off all the existing nicks and irregularities;
• lubricate the surfaces with graphite lubricant for prevention;
• we return the door to its place.

When problems with closing the hatch are caused by sagging hinges or loose fasteners, you need to adjust the position of the door hinges. But here everything is determined by eye: we twist and tighten the fasteners until they fit completely into the grooves.

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Wiring

Damage to the wires is possible due to the constant heating that is inherent in the operation of the door lock. A multimeter is used to test all the wires coming from the lock, as well as the contacts and chips.

The work is simple, but often everything in the car is twisted into a bundle and wrapped with electrical tape. This is especially true for Samsung and LG washing machines. The Koreans calculate everything down to the millimeter. Everything needs to be unwound and checked!

Wires in the washing machine

Module

The control board is a reliable element of the washing machine, but it burns due to overloads that occur both inside and outside the machine. Based on the operating principle of the locking lock, damage is not uncommon here. In this case, two options are possible:

Buying a module is not so simple. You need to find a specific board that matches the car model. In addition, it needs to be “flashed”, that is, filled with a program using special equipment, which again suits the brand. In addition, you cannot confuse the cables and wires that are connected to it.

Expert opinion

I work in the household appliance repair industry. Extensive experience in restoring washing machines and dishwashers.

Repairing a damaged module is cheaper. This is the most pragmatic option.

The problem just arises with finding an intelligent electronics specialist, especially in small towns. If there is no choice, and you are sure that the problem is in the module, then you can order it online.

But in this case, it is often more profitable to buy a new washing machine. Because the cost of electronic boards for the most common models ranges from 5,000 rubles to 15,000 rubles. Sometimes more.

Electronic module SMA

Causes of malfunction

There are two types of reasons for door lock failure: mechanical and electrical/electronic.

Mechanical failure

A mechanical fault manifests itself as follows: when closing the door of the washing machine, a characteristic click is not heard. A mechanical problem prevents the hook from clicking into place and we do not hear a click. If the mechanism is working properly, when the hatch door slams, a click is always heard. Possible reasons:

• displaced hook of the hatch opening mechanism . The hook has deviated from its usual position and does not fit into the groove of the locking lock.
• shifted hatch . There is significant play in the hatch; the hatch hook does not fit into the locking lock.
• mechanical failure of the opening mechanism . All opening mechanisms are made of plastic; over time, the plastic breaks due to mechanical stress and then opening or closing the hatch becomes impossible.
• mechanical failure of the hatch lock . The hatch blocking body consists entirely of plastic, which can break due to external mechanical or thermal influence; any defect will directly affect the performance of the blocking for the worse.

Electrical/electronic faults

The electric current does not reach the UBL and it does not work. Possible reasons:

• The hatch lock has failed . Failure of the internal electrical component of the lock: wires, contacts and other elements.
• There is no voltage supplied to the hatch lock . A break in the wires that supply voltage to the interlock, a malfunction of the electronics that controls the supply of electricity to the interlock.

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Where is UBL located?

The control mechanism for opening and locking the washing machine door is located in the hatch lock housing, on the front panel. Directly in the place where the hatch hook fits. It is enclosed in a plastic case and equipped with a power connector.

The thermoelectric sensor for closing the door of a washing machine is a horizontal plate in the center of the lock structure, on the one hand, limited in mobility, and on the other, equipped with a pressing spring. Under the plate there is a thermistor, which expands from the current passing through it and pushes the plate sideways.

How to fix the problem?

Hook lock

On washing machines, the hook that is inserted into the lock for subsequent locking is held on a metal rod. Over time, the rod moves out of place and the hook moves and does not fit properly. The blocking cannot work in this case. For the same reason, the door may not close at all.

To fix this, you need to remove the hatch, unscrew the screws around the perimeter of the hatch, halve the hatch and put the rod in place where it is attached.

Video instruction: returning the hook to its place on the Indesit WIU61.

Luke

All hatches are made of plastic, and the hinges on which the hatch is held are made of metal. Over time, the metal begins to eat away at the plastic due to friction and backlash appears . The positions of the hatch and the hook are shifted, in which case the hook cannot get into place, the same thing happens when the rod is displaced, which we considered earlier. In such cases, the hatch itself or its parts responsible for holding the hatch in a certain position are replaced.

To troubleshoot:

• Remove the hatch.
• Unscrew the screws around the perimeter and halve it.
• Replace the damaged parts with new ones and reassemble the hatch in reverse order.

Opening mechanism

The opening mechanism includes: a hatch handle, a hatch hook, a spring and a rod on which the hook is held. If any of these components fail, the hatch will not lock or open .

To fix this problem, you will have to disassemble the hatch and replace the broken part. Most often it is the hatch handle.

For this:

• We remove the hatch.
• We unscrew the screws around the perimeter of the hatch.
• Let's halve it.
• Remove the broken handle.
• We put a new one in its place.
• Reassemble in reverse order.

Video instruction: replacing a broken hatch handle on an Indesit WS105TX.

Mechanical failure of the reverse part

Such damage is typical for SMAs equipped with thermal UBL. This is the simplest door locking device, based on a thermal plate and typical for inexpensive machines. The main disadvantage is that the plate needs time to cool down and return to its original state, thereby releasing the hook.

Broken back of the hatch

As a rule, this takes 2-3 minutes. Almost all cars have a light indication that the door is closed and cannot be opened. But users, in the hustle and bustle, forget about this and begin to pull the door handle ahead of time. The hook is metal, and the handle on the hatch is plastic.

This is done to prevent electric shock. The fact is that the hook is in contact with the lock, through which current constantly passes during washing. That's why the handles are made of plastic.

Due to constant tugging, they break and need to be replaced. This position is easy to determine - with the hatch open, move the handle. If the hook does not move, then the mechanism is broken.

The design of the UBL will be discussed in another article.

Video on checking the hatch locking device.

Note that this approach is applicable to different SMA brands, for example: Electrolux, Zanussi, Ariston, Indesit, (Wirlpool), Kandy, (Hansa), Gorenje, Ardo, "Beko", "AEG", (Miele), "Kaiser" and "Atlant".

UBL does not fulfill its function

When a mechanical lock is triggered, the first click is present, but the second is not, then the problem is UBL. The hatch locking device is responsible for additional electronic locking and is also a mandatory step in closing the machine. Without it, the user will easily open the door in the middle of the cycle, which will lead to disastrous consequences. Therefore, even with complete sealing without protection in the form of electronics, the machine will not start the wash.

If the UBL is faulty, the door will not lock. The board refuses electrical fixation for the following reasons.

• Wear. Long-term operation also affects the bimetallic plates of the UBL: they wear out and lose electrical conductivity. It is not possible to repair a worn-out device - only replacement.
• Blockage. The locking does not work if debris or other small foreign objects get inside the device. To correct the situation, it is enough to disassemble the UBL, find the “obstacle” and remove it.
• Problems with the control board. In the worst case, the UBL loses contact with the electronic unit of the washing machine. The reason lies in burnt tracks, triacs, problematic firmware or a system glitch. First, it is recommended to restart the washing machine, and if the error repeats, carry out a comprehensive diagnostic of the control module.

Diagnostics of the Indesit control board should be carried out by professionals, otherwise there is a high risk of irreversibly damaging the part.

The user can check the locking device for wear and blockage independently and at home. Diagnostics of the control board should only be carried out by a specialist from the service department. The fact is that the electrical unit of a washing machine is an extremely fragile and tamper-sensitive part that requires careful handling and special equipment. Unlike UBL, the module is very expensive, so experiments will not be cheap.

Hatch lock

The second part of the mechanism that is involved in locking the hatch of the washing machine is called UBL (hatch locking device). The lock is needed to maintain the tightness of the tank during washing, in other words, it does not allow the hatch door to be opened as long as voltage is applied to it, that is, until the washing machine stops completely.

The lock loses its functionality if it breaks down mechanically or if the electric current does not reach it.

UBL for Indesit washing machines

Mechanical damage is often caused by overheating of the interlock , since the UBL is constantly energized during operation. The locking body is made of plastic and gradually deforms due to temperature, causing malfunction.

It happens that a washing machine, due to strong vibration, damages the lock itself by hitting the tank or balancing stone. This happens when the shock absorbers are weakened is unevenly distributed during the spin cycle . In both cases, replacement of the UBL is inevitable.

To change the UBL you need:

• Remove the spring that holds the outer part of the hatch cuff.
• Unscrew the screws that hold the lock in place.
• Pull the lock out and disconnect it from the electrical wires.
• Place the wires on the new lock and put it in place.

Don’t forget to remember in what order the wires were placed; not all interlocks have the wires connected with a whole connector; sometimes they are installed separately. I advise you to take pictures of the wires before you do anything.

Some blockages can be eliminated from the process by connecting two wires to each other, simulating a triggered blockage, but this method has a disadvantage. You can open the hatch door at any time while the washing machine is operating, and you can also run the program without closing the hatch, which will inevitably lead to a flood.

Therefore, this method is not suitable for absent-minded, inattentive users and families with small children. But I advise you not to skimp on safety and replace a faulty device.

Electrical and electronic faults

Broken wires may be to blame for this ; this happens when the machine jumps a lot during the spin cycle. You need to look for the fault visually by following the locking wires to the electronic module, finding a break and repairing the wires using a soldering iron.

Also, the locking problem may be due to a faulty control module . The electronics do not generate a signal to supply voltage to the UBL and the washing does not start.

To check, remove the module and carefully inspect. Look for burnt or melted contacts, burnt tracks and elements. If the module is severely damaged, replace it.

May nothing break for you and may the Master’s Power be with you!

What types of locking devices are there and how do they work?

Having decided to deal with the problem yourself, you need to have an idea of ​​how the UBL works and what kind of locks are installed on automatic machines. Over the past decades, manufacturers have equipped washing machines with either electromagnetic locks or mechanisms with bimetallic plates.

As for electromagnetic devices, they are recognized as quite unreliable. Such locks block the hatch only when power is applied. If suddenly the lights in the apartment are turned off, the mechanism will instantly stop working. Modern washing machines, in the vast majority of cases, are equipped with UBL based on bimetallic plates.

The operating principle of bollards with bimetallic plates is very simple. The operation of the mechanism is ensured by three components:

• thermoelement;
• hook-fixer;
• bimetallic strip.

When the user starts the wash, voltage is supplied to the UBL thermocouple. The part heats up and transfers heat to the bimetallic strip. Next, the plate, under the influence of high temperatures, increases in size and presses on the latch. The hook quickly operates and closes the mechanism, thereby blocking the door. While the current “enters” the lock, the hatch remains tightly closed.

Testing the UBL and changing it

But a door that does not close does not always require immediate replacement of the UBL. Before changing the blocker, you need to make sure that it is faulty. To evaluate the performance of the device, you will have to remove the device, inspect it and check it with a multimeter. We act like this.

• We disconnect the Indesit washing machine from all communications, including sewerage and water supply.
• We open the hatch. As a rule, if the mechanics worked perfectly, the door remains closed. Then we unlock it manually: unscrew the top cover, tilt the washer back, stick your hand to the lock and try to move the latch to the side with your index finger. You can proceed in a similar way from below, after first removing the bottom.
• Loosen the outer clamp on the cuff and tuck the elastic inside the drum.
• We find the lock, loosen the holding screws and take it out.
• Disconnect the wires connected to the UBL.

• We take out the UBL.

There is no need to try to repair a faulty UBL. Firstly, it is useless with disposable blocker parts. Secondly, the new device is inexpensive. In order not to make a mistake with the replacement, you need to tell the Indesit serial number in the store. Installation will not cause any difficulties: just act carefully, do not forget about safety precautions and follow the instructions described.

UBL with temperature sensor

When electricity is supplied, the UBL locks the hatch in the closed position. It closes the contacts of the switching device and signals that the wash can be started. A special lever mechanically secures the lock. This lasts the entire wash cycle.

And at the moment when electricity stops supplying to the locking device, you need to wait about 2-3 minutes. The latch then retracts and allows the door to be opened.

How does the locking device work?

A resistor is involved in the operation of the UBL. Its resistance increases as its heating increases. This effect causes the two plates that are located in the lock to change their shape. This produces a displacement of the lever. The lever closes the contacts of the switching device.

At the same time, the latch connected to the contact plate moves, creating a fixation of the hatch door. The entire process occurs within a few seconds after the electricity is applied. When the power supply is interrupted, the temperature sensor cools down. Cooling takes 1 to 3 minutes. After which the plates take their normal shape. The contact is no longer closed and latching is terminated.

Hatch locking device

When starting to check, it is important to understand what type of lock is installed in your model of automatic washing machine (WMA). In older SM releases, manufacturers installed blockers with an electromagnet

However, they were ineffective without electricity. If the electricity was turned off during washing, the hatch automatically unlocked.

Another thing is the hatch door lock based on bimetallic plates. They are used everywhere due to their efficient operation.

The structure consists of three main elements:

• thermoelement;
• bimetallic plate;
• fixing device.

How does UBL work? Everything is tied to electronics. The electronic board supplies current to the thermocouple, which heats up quickly. This, in turn, is applied to the plate, which, increasing in size, pushes out the latch. Typically, when you start a cycle, you will hear a click, which means the door is locked and ready to draw water.

The principle of operation of the lock has been disassembled. Now let's talk about its problems: for what reasons does a breakdown occur?

Reasons for the malfunction of the lock in the washing machine

There are two main causes of breakdowns: physical wear and tear and electronic problems.

• Constant deformation of the plates when heated leads to damage and destruction of the element. In such cases, fixation does not work at all.
• Power surges in the network can lead to breakdown of the thermoelement. Then it does not heat up, therefore, the plate remains in place. The short circuit of the control triac results in the door not opening. Current is continuously supplied to the parts, so the latch does not turn off.

What should I do if there is a problem? Check the lock of the washing machine and replace it if it is faulty.

How to check the UBL of a washing machine with a tester?

The first thing that catches your eye when a breakdown occurs is the abnormal operation of the equipment. Here are the signs that indicate problems with UBL:

• The hatch does not open even several hours after the wash is finished.
• A code was displayed on the display of the washing machine, which indicates a problem with the blocker.
• The door will not unlock even after disconnecting the appliance from the power supply.
• During startup, the lock does not work and the hatch does not close.

Most often, either the element itself or its wiring and control module fail. A multimeter will help you accurately determine the cause of the breakdown.

To perform diagnostics, you will need the electrical diagram of the device. It may be different for each model, because manufacturers arrange the contacts differently.

What you need to find out:

• Where is the “neutral” contact located?
• Where is "general" located?
• Where is the “phase” located?

Prepare a multimeter and adjust it to measure resistance. You can get to the lock the same way in all front models:

• Open the door.
• Unscrew the two mounting bolts.
• Bend down the sealing collar.
• Place your hand behind your body.
• Get the UBL.
• Disconnect the wiring.

Now place one tester probe on the neutral contact and the other on the phase contact. Three-digit values ​​are considered normal.

Next, place one probe against the neutral contact, and the other against the common one. The device is considered broken if the values ​​are 1 or 0.

The tester did not find a fault, but the lock does not work? Inspect the lock itself; perhaps the reason is the wear of the bimetallic element. The lock cannot be repaired; it must be replaced immediately. Buy an identical part from the store, connect the wires and install it in its original place. Watch the video for details:

How to perform diagnostics if the sunroof is blocked? There is an easy way to open it:

• Take a thin ribbon.
• Pass it between the door and the SMA body.
• Pull firmly on both ends.
• The latch should give way.

Lastly, the control board is inspected. Its triacs often suffer from oxidation and burns. The reason for this is unstable voltage in the network and high humidity in the room. It is better to entrust module repair to a specialist.

To maintain the functionality of the washing machine electronics, connect the equipment through a voltage stabilizer. Before starting repairs, unplug the plug from the outlet.

Bad 7

Interesting 18

Super

Failures that cause the washing machine to click

Sometimes the machine still starts the wash, but sharp clicks are clearly audible during operation. Let's consider what malfunctions can cause them.

Foreign objects in the housing

Foreign small objects often get caught between the tank and the drum, causing loud knocks and clicks. Usually they first get into the drum along with the clothes, and then penetrate through the holes into the body of the washer. Before washing, be sure to check your clothes for the presence of small foreign objects in your pockets.

Shock absorbers

Shock absorbers dampen possible vibrations that occur during operation of the washing machine and ensure silent operation. Over time, they fail and begin to knock or make clicking noises. If only one shock absorber is worn out, the machine knocks more only on one side. This is a common malfunction that happens with automatic machines.

Network filter

It is needed to smooth out the voltage in the network during surges. The surge protector is most often attached to the rear wall of the machine at the top of the case. If it is loose or loose, it will start hitting the body and tank, making loud knocking noises. To correct the problem, the surge protector must be securely fastened in place.

Pulley

The same problem can happen with a pulley. This is a system of two rings with a rim, mounted on the back wall of the drum. Thanks to the pulley, torque is transmitted from the electric motor to the drum. If the fastenings are loosened, clicks begin to be heard during the washing process or the machine may not start at all. This is a rare problem, but it does happen sometimes with older models.

Bearings

When the bearings wear out, the drum most often knocks and clicks during spin cycles or when the engine picks up speed. This unit is responsible for the smooth rotation of the drum. If worn-out bearings are not replaced in time, they can eventually puncture the tank or grind off the crosspiece, which will make the repair more serious.

Counterweight

This is a balancing heavy block attached to balance the drum and dampen vibrations. If its fastenings become loose or it begins to fall apart, the counterweight begins to strongly rock the machine, causing it to bounce, knock and click. The mounting bolts need to be adjusted or the counterweight needs to be replaced.

Tank suspension springs

The tank is held in the correct position thanks to springs. There may be a different number of them, two or four, depending on the model. Sometimes one or more springs fly off the fasteners, so the tank hits the body during washing. It is easy to determine the malfunction yourself. You need to press the drum with your hand. If it moves down easily, the reason is a weakened or broken spring.

Electrical and electronic faults

There are times when the washing machine door closes and the latch is working, but the lock still does not work. This means that the problem lies in the electronics. There may be several reasons:

• UBL breakdown;
• getting into the debris blocking device;
• control module failure.

UBL malfunction

Absolutely all modern washing machines have a hatch locking device (UBL). It protects the machine door from opening during washing. There are two types of UBL:

• electric locks operating on electric magnets;
• thermal locks operating thanks to biometallic plates.

Thermal locks are stronger and more durable, which is why they are used in most devices.
Inside such a lock there is an element that heats up when the machine is turned on and voltage is applied, as well as a metal plate. Due to the thermoelement, it heats up and bends, thereby blocking the door. After the hatch is closed, a contact is activated, which sends a signal to the control unit and the washing begins. If the process has not started, then there are problems in the UBL device. This problem is quite common in Indesit washing machines.

In order not to disassemble the device in vain, you can check the functionality of the locking device. To do this, you need to turn on the machine and try to start the wash without putting laundry in the drum. If the door is locked and a click is heard, then everything is in order with the UBL. Otherwise, you need to remove the device from the washing machine and repair it.

The most common cause of failure of the locking device is the loss of performance of the plate. Due to frequent changes in the temperature of the plate, its surface is destroyed. The lock can be locked both open and closed.

To repair or replace the locking device, you must:

• Using a screwdriver or pliers, remove the clamp on the cuff.
• Remove the cuff.
• Unscrew the screws on both sides of the lock.
• Remove the lock from the hole between the drum and the outer wall of the machine.
• Disconnect the connectors with wires.
• Connect a new lock to the wires.
• Put the part in place.
• Return the cuff.
• Run a test wash.

To make it easier to remove the lock, you can press on the machine body and tilt it back, so the drum will not put pressure on the cuff.

Damage to wiring

If the wiring in the washing machine is faulty, not only will the hatch not be blocked, but it will also periodically knock out plugs in the house. Sometimes the washing machine gets electrocuted.

Each washing machine consists of main electrical components:

• engine;
• sensors;
• pump;
• selector;
• control module;
• heating element.

There can be many reasons for wiring failure. The most common of them are:

• Drum clogged with debris;
• The filter is clogged, causing water to not be collected or drained;
• Damage to the drive belt;
• Pump jammed.

If the washing machine does not block the door and does not turn on, and the lights on the display do not light up, then you need to:

• Check the connection to the outlet. You can also make sure there is voltage at the outlet. If it is not there, then you should disassemble the socket and check the wires for integrity. And to start the wash, you can use an extension cord and another outlet.
• Check the integrity of the machine cord. To do this, you need to disassemble the machine and find the place where the wire goes. If there is no voltage at the ends of the wire, it should be replaced.
• Make sure the control unit is in good condition. To do this, you need to measure the voltage on the board. If the voltage on the board and the network are the same, then the board is damaged. This may happen due to a blown fuse.
• Inspect the board for burnout. If the tracks are damaged, they need to be replaced.
• Check the washing mode selector. Sometimes the contacts of a part burn out or rot.

Operating principle and types of locks

Today, two types of locks are commonly found:

• How to connect a washing machine with your own hands

• Electromagnetic.
• Bimetallic.

The first type is used less and less. Its main drawback is that the lock only works properly as long as there is electricity. If the light is turned off, the washing machine will not be unlocked.

The operating principle of a bimetallic lock is very simple: voltage is applied to the thermal element and heats it up. The hot thermocouple heats up the bimetallic plates; under the influence of heat, they expand and press on the lever. It goes off and blocks the door. At the end of the program, the voltage supply to the lock stops, the plates cool down, narrow and the latch returns to its original place. The washing machine hatch is unlocked.

The second type of locks has a number of advantages. Firstly, there is a delay in unlocking the hatch at the end of the program. This is necessary so that the washing machine completely drains the water and all its elements complete their work. Secondly, even if the power goes out, the lock will unlock, and the door can be opened and the laundry taken out. This type of UBL is used by many modern manufacturers of washing machines - LG, Samsung, Indesit, etc.