If the washing program has completed, but the water has not completely drained from the drum or the clothes remain too wet, it means that the Atlant washing machine does not spin out the laundry. This situation occurs often, but large-scale breakdowns do not always lead to poor-quality spinning. Perhaps an imbalance or simple inattention is to blame. We suggest you figure out why the drum does not spin up to full power and how to solve this problem on your own. Let's look at all the typical problems and ways to fix them.
Where to look for a breakdown?
You can deal with wet laundry by taking it out of the drum and manually wringing it over the bathtub. But this will not only require a lot of effort and time, but will put the washing machine at risk. By turning a blind eye to suspicious “symptoms”, you can aggravate the problem up to the “death” of the equipment. It is better not to complicate your life, but to respond to the problem in a timely manner.
First of all, it’s worth figuring out what breakdowns and failures cause the spin to not work. On Atlant washing machines, the drum does not spin in the following situations:
- No spin mode is on;
- the drum is unbalanced;
- the drainage system is not functioning;
- the tachometer is broken;
- the electric motor does not accelerate;
- the bearing unit was damaged;
- the control board has failed;
- the drum is jammed due to a foreign object getting into the tank.
If the washing machine is under warranty, then it is prohibited to open the case yourself - all manipulations are carried out in a service center.
In 99% of cases, you can deal with a non-working spin on your own. You just need to consistently check all the designated “sore points” of the Atlant washing machine, not forgetting about safety precautions. Specific instructions on how and what to do are given below.
Checking the belt
This element is present in almost any modern washing machine, with the exception of direct drive SMAs, the founder of which is the Korean company LG.
SMA motor drive belt
Using a belt, rotational motion is transmitted from the motor to the drum. It is based on rubber. Over time, as well as with systematic overloads, the belt stretches. Moreover, in erase mode, it fully performs its function.
And when doing push-ups, it starts to slip due to lack of grip due to stretching. As a result, the drum does not rotate and the laundry does not spin out.
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There is only one way out in this situation - buying a new belt. Note that there are a wide variety of models, and you need to purchase the one that matches the product number of the washing machine.
It's fairly easy to remove. It is enough to pull it towards you while slightly rotating the shaft. Installed as follows:
- First we put it on the engine;
- then onto the drum pulley as far as it will fit;
- holding the belt with one hand and rotating with the other;
- Pull it all the way.
Are you unplugging your washing machine?
Oh yes! No
Most washing machines have a lid that can be removed from the back. This is enough to complete the replacement job. But in cars such as Zanussi, Electrolux and AEG, the rear housing must be removed. This is the specificity of these models.
Error in selecting mode
If the machine has not wrung out the laundry, then there is no need to panic. Often the problem is not a breakdown, but simple carelessness. For example, when the user accidentally selects a mode in which the spin is automatically set to a minimum of 400-600 rpm. Basic programs include “Down”, “Wool”, “Curtains”, “Delicate”, “Handmade” and “Silk”.
It’s easy to confirm or refute a guess: we remember which program was chosen and read its features in the instructions. Or we go the experimental way, starting a new cycle with a spin mode - “Spin”, “Children’s”, “Cotton” or “Fast”. If the laundry in the drum dries out, it means a mistake was made.
It is recommended to use the “Child Lock” option, which will prevent accidental changes to the cycle settings.
Don’t forget about the possibility of accidentally reducing the intensity of drum rotation. Many modern washing machines allow you to freely change factory settings, including canceling the spin cycle. It is enough to accidentally touch one of the panel buttons to change the speed from maximum to minimum. It is better to carry out a test wash, monitoring the displayed indicators. If things are not wrung out, then we proceed to diagnostics.
The washing machine does not spin clothes after washing: 10 reasons for failure
Quite often a situation occurs when the user accidentally presses the button to cancel the spin function and the machine quite rightly stops. By checking this point, it is necessary to begin diagnosing a washing machine with a faulty spin cycle.
It is worth considering that spinning is not provided in the gentle wash mode. The program includes gentle washing conditions, after which many items retain a large amount of moisture. Some models of machines do not wring things out at all in this mode to preserve the integrity of the fabric.
If the standard washing mode was set and the spin cancel button was not activated, then there is a malfunction of the washing machine.
Perhaps it's an imbalance
The most common cause of missing spin is imbalance. In simple words, when the drum spins, it gets knocked off its given axis and begins to hit the walls of the tank. For safety reasons, the machine stops rotating, the cycle ends 7-15 minutes earlier, and the clothes are not wrung out.
Failure to comply with drum loading standards leads to imbalance: overloading or underloading. Clumping of linen also disrupts the balance when, for example, it gets stuffed into a hole in a duvet cover and is distributed unevenly along the walls. Modern machines are able to detect suspicious swaying and display the corresponding error code on the display. Old models only stop the cycle, leaving users confused.
If you suspect an imbalance, you should:
- wait until the machine turns off the UBL;
- open the hatch and assess the situation (overload, underload or knockdown);
- eliminate the problem (by pulling out some of the laundry, adding items or breaking up the lump and distributing the clothes in the drum);
- close the door;
- activate spin;
- make sure the laundry is wrung out.
Failure to comply with loading standards leads to drum imbalance!
It is better to avoid imbalance and constantly monitor the number of items washed. Unbalancing destroys the bearing assembly, drum shaft and shock absorption system, not to mention possible internal mechanical damage. Be sure to remember both the upper and lower limits (both are indicated in the factory instructions). Thus, the Atlant washing machine with a capacity of up to 5 kg washes 1 kg of laundry at a time, and with a load of 8-9 kg the minimum is set to 2.5 kg.
Special cases: different models
If Samsung doesn't press
The Samsung washing machine does not spin for the above reasons and the following:
| What to do | |
| Works for a long time without stopping | Check the water level in the car, water pressure in the tap |
| There is no spin, the engine hums after draining the water | It is necessary to inspect the device by a service specialist |
| During the spin cycle, the drum stops, accompanied by dull knocks. | Set the machine level, unravel the laundry for better distribution throughout the drum |
| Poor laundry | Reduce the percentage of synthetic laundry when washing with natural items, or wash separately |
| No spin on every mode | Call a service engineer to repair internal components |
| No spin in winter | Check the water drain, whether there is rust or dirt in the hose, or whether the sewer is frozen |
| The heating element does not heat the water or increases the temperature of cold water | Repair the heating element or replace it with the help of a service department |
Selecting the boil and dry cycle will take longer to wash your laundry.
How to repair spin in LG
To find out the reasons for the lack of spin in LG washing machine models and eliminate them, you must:
- Remove the panel at the back of the machine and the cover on top of it. On the cover, unscrew 2 screws on each side and remove the bracket. The lid is moved back a few centimeters and lifted. The panel at the back of the unit is slightly bent to release it from the grooves.
Check the 3-phase motor for the integrity of its windings by turning on a multimeter and measuring Ohms. The motor connector with three pins must be disconnected. The resistance between the three wires (contacts) is normally 7.5-7.8 ohms.
Check the control module while simultaneously switching the unit to diagnostic mode by holding the “Spin speed” mode speed button and the “Soil level” button, then pressing the power button.
During diagnostics, press the “Start” button once to lock the door, and a second time to proceed to the spin cycle.
If there are zero readings (at zero revolutions) and the engine does not rotate, disconnect the connector from the engine at the rear of the machine.
A multimeter measures alternating voltage. Normally, it is between three contacts - 140-150 Volts. There is no voltage - the control module is faulty.
To replace the module, turn off the power from the unit and unscrew 1 screw from the pressure switch, remove it and put it aside. Next, remove the power connector and other connectors, carefully opening the latches with a knife and disconnecting them. All connectors on the front side must be disconnected, and the screw on the back side of the control module must be unscrewed. Now the module is shifted to the right and pulled out. In reverse order, then install the module in its place.
Why doesn't Indesit squeeze out?
The cause of spin malfunction in Indesit may be a malfunction of the “spin shutdown” switch, electronic module, or tachometer. When using the machine, the cause of poor spinning is simple inattention: turn on the “No spin” or “Delicate wash” mode, which does not involve spinning clothes or linen.
Again, the drum should be loaded according to the instructions, without exceeding or decreasing the required weight of the laundry, and also comply with all conditions for the normal operation of the machine. Severe breakdowns, such as a malfunction of the tachometer, water leaking into it and wear, malfunction of the engine or control module, are best left to a service specialist.
Discharge of waste water is not possible
It’s another matter if, after spinning, the water does not drain from the drum. Most likely, this is due to a non-functioning drain system - the washer cannot empty the tank due to a faulty pump, a blocked impeller or a blockage. To understand why the failure occurred and what to do, you will have to sequentially check all the identified problems.
- Eliminate sewer blockage. First, covering the hole with your hand, disconnect the drain hose from the sewer pipe and lower it into the bathtub or sink. The common drain may be clogged.
- We probe the hose. Next, carefully inspect the drain hose for blockages and kinks. If seals or foreign objects are noticed, the corrugation is disconnected and washed under the tap.
- Checking the filter. The garbage filter is located in the lower right corner of the machine behind the rectangular technical hatch. We pry up the last one with a screwdriver, remove it and, replacing the basin, unscrew the filter nozzle. All adhered dirt must be cleaned off.
- We look at the impeller and pump. The hole freed from the filter is illuminated with a flashlight. You need to find the snail, remove hair and lint from the blades, clean the pump body and “ring” all contacts with a multimeter.
The garbage filter is unscrewed strictly clockwise!
If the problem is a faulty pump or a damaged filter, then repair will not help - replacing broken parts is indicated. Once all the manipulations have been completed, you should assemble the machine and carry out a test wash. An empty drum after spinning will eliminate the fault of the drain system.
The tachometer should be tested
The washing machine will not be able to spin if the tachogenerator fails. Another name for the device is a Hall sensor, and it is responsible for the speed gained by the engine. If the device breaks down and stops recording speed, the control board loses connection with the motor and stops spinning for the safety of the equipment.
The following reasons can lead to problems with the tachometer:
- repeated drum overload;
- long-term operation of the machine without a “respite”;
- loose fixation of the device;
- detachment of contacts or damage to wires;
- sudden voltage surges or a short circuit that has occurred.
To diagnose the Hall sensor with your own hands, you need to remove the motor from the housing, find the tachogenerator attached to it and inspect it. Next, we tighten the terminals, strip the wires, test the connections with a multimeter and compare the results with the norm. If the device is faulty, then replacement is necessary.
Engine problem
You can figure it out yourself in cases where the engine has failed. Commutator motors slow down when the brushes are worn out or there are problems with the winding. To diagnose, you need to remove the motor from the washer:
- disconnect equipment from the power supply and water supply;
- remove the back panel;
- remove the drive belt;
- unhook the wiring and retaining bolts;
- rock the engine and take it out.
Electric brushes are always replaced in pairs!
All that remains is to clean the engine and inspect it, trying to notice signs of overheating (burning smell, dark spots, charred insulation). Then we check the electric brushes: we open the “cases” and evaluate the length of the “coal”. If the tip is less than 0.7-1.5 cm, then replace it with new ones. Finally, we test the winding with a multimeter.
There's something extra in the tank
Jamming of the drum by a foreign object also leads to poor-quality spinning. Keys or a coin left in your pocket fall into the tank, and then awkwardly “stand up” and prevent the tank from rotating. You must act immediately, otherwise the walls of the containers, the market price of which is comparable to a new machine, will be damaged.
Before disassembling the machine, it is worth confirming the “diagnosis”. You need to disconnect the equipment from the power supply, drain the water, open the hatch and spin the drum. If rotation is difficult, a creaking or crackling sound is heard, it means there is a foreign object inside.
We proceed like this:
- disconnect the machine from the sewer and water supply;
- move away from the wall;
- remove the back panel;
- we find the heating element;
- photograph the “chip” with wires;
- unhook the wiring;
- unscrew the holding bolts;
- remove the heating element to the side;
- shine a flashlight through the hole;
- We remove the stuck object by hand or with a metal hook.
We recommend not to stop there, but to take advantage of the situation and carry out an extraordinary cleaning of the heating element. Then we assemble the machine and check whether the drum spins freely. Then we run a test wash and monitor the spin quality. If things remain wet, we look for the problem further.
Pre-check
If the washing machine has been leveled and all transport bolts on the rear wall (drum side) have been removed, then you should check:
- how the water drain works and, if necessary, you should clean the hose or filter from clogging;
- whether the button that sets a reduced speed for a delicate spin has been accidentally pressed;
- whether the operating mode without spin is selected when washing woolen or silk laundry, in this case it is necessary to switch the mode to spin;
- Is the drum overloaded with laundry, because for this reason it will rotate more slowly and the laundry will not be spun well. The drum may even fail.
If the drum is underloaded with things, then they will not be distributed evenly around its circumference and vibration may occur at high drum speeds. The machine automatically reduces the speed, so the spin becomes insufficient. To prevent this, wash one large item with 2-4 small ones.
You should use powders, bleaches and fabric softeners recommended by the manufacturers, and do not allow them in excess - this can cause poor spinning. When washing and spinning, delicate items are placed in a special mesh.
Destruction of the bearing unit
If the washing machine does not spin, and additionally produces previously uncharacteristic noise, squeaking and rumble, then it is worth checking the bearing assembly. Probably, the seals have become leaky, lost their tightness, and the water that got onto the bearings washed out the lubricant. The situation is restored by replacing all damaged parts.
Repairing a bearing assembly is a labor-intensive task. You will have to purchase replacement parts suitable for the washing machine, and then disassemble the machine almost completely, removing the counterweights, heating element, shock absorbers and tank. Then it is necessary to knock out the stuck bearings without damaging the crosspiece and the drum shaft. Accordingly, you will need a lot of tools and consumables.
Before disassembling, you should study the factory instructions and electrical diagram of the Atlant washing machine.
Before you start repairing a bearing assembly, you should soberly assess your strengths and abilities. Without experience and practice, it is easy to aggravate the problem: damage the wires, pierce the tank or bend the shaft. However, you will have to pay a large sum for the services of a specialist, since on average replacing bearings is estimated at a third of the cost of a new washing machine.
Why doesn't the spin cycle of my Whirlpool washing machine work?
The lack of spin or its insufficient quality may be indicated by high humidity of items after washing or water remaining in the drum. At the same time, the Whirlpool machine itself may make sounds uncharacteristic of normal operation, vibrate, or not spin at all.
There are several reasons for the lack of a full spin. The most common ones include the following:
A blockage in the drainage system occurs when water cannot physically be drained from the tank, and spinning as such becomes impossible.- Problem with the level sensor. If it breaks down, the signal from the control module to drain may simply not be received.
- Motor failure. This almost always leads to a drop in power, and, as a consequence, the inability to wring things out.
- Control module failure.
- Tachogenerator failure.
- User errors.
- Malfunctions in the operation of the pressure switch.
- Belt slippage.
- Pump failure.
- Bearing wear.
- Wear of shock absorbers.
It may be necessary to sequentially analyze the status of the affected nodes to pinpoint the cause of the failure.
Something with electronics
It’s worse if spinning is impossible due to problems with the electronics. The triac responsible for the motor burns out, so the motor loses connection with the board and does not spin the drum to the required speed. The machine either spins weakly or does not start at all.
The difficulty is that it is strongly not recommended to diagnose the board yourself. Without practice and special equipment, you can aggravate the problem to an irreversible state with one wrong move. It’s better not to experiment and entrust the module to professionals. Reflashing services are priced at several times lower than the cost of a new electronic unit.
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Reader comments
- Share your opinion - leave a comment
The car does not reach high speeds
In order for the laundry to be wrung out well, the machine must reach high speeds. This may not happen because there are too few or too many things in the machine. The problem can be easily corrected by evenly distributing the loads of laundry. The machine cannot reach high speeds also due to deformation and abrasion of the drive belt. In this case, the drum simply begins to scroll “idle”. The problem can be resolved by replacing the belt.
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