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Why the Indesit washing machine does not turn on
This topic was also taken from the form that was on my website. The essence of the problem was that the owner of the Indesit washing machine connected the ground wire to one of the terminals of the heating element, the result was what you will read about in this paragraph
Hello, help me repair the control module of the Indesit wisl washing machine, control unit 215009152.02. According to the owner, the heating element was not connected correctly, as a result of which the relay leg k5, inductor l1, resistors and varistors were normal. The tny264 and uln2003 PWMs were replaced, as well as the mains and secondary capacitors. The result is a surge in voltage from 0 to 6 instead of 12 volts and from 0 to 2 instead of 5 volts. I changed everything in the harness, the result was the same. Is it possible to have a short circuit in the transformer? I found a diagram of the power supply, maybe you can advise
Judging by the diagram, I assume that you are torturing the EVO-II board. I didn’t understand how it was possible to connect the heating element incorrectly; if it threw a phase onto the body, then most likely there was a short circuit, and the result may well be that the microcircuit was pierced. How the control panel behaves, what blinks. Why did they change uln2003, was it clearly broken or is this just your guess. It is not advisable to check the transformer on the board; it is better to remove it and check it. A short circuit on the transformer is quite possible, but it behaves differently; there would hardly be any pulses. This behavior is more like a broken diode, zener diode, capacitor or transistor, and also - the PWM is definitely working. Did you take measurements from the transformer? And if so, then you need to dig the chain to it. In short, there could be a lot of reasons. From personal experience, in such cases, I first of all check the parts that I indicated in the photo, their denominations under the photo, then unsolder the uln2003 and check without it, then depending on the circumstances. And write about the result
Zener diode = 4.35V, SMD capacitance 0.1 µF, but I don’t know the voltage, I take it from other boards, I don’t remember the transistor value either - again, I’m taking it from another module, as there was no need to look
Yes, there was exactly a phase on the case, nothing works on the display unit, because there is no constant voltage of 12 volts, uln2003 changed all the relays clicked in time, short circuit on all legs, the whole memory is readable and sewn. All measurements were made with a load, the 12V light flashes in time, the capacity when measuring is 280 volts without ripple, I removed all the triacs, varistors and relays, there is a bare power supply at the output, not counting the ulnka, so as not to break the 12 V, without it, the same thing at 5 volts. I’m not sure about the transistor, is it an analogue for bc817? And where is the p6ke diode located on the diagram?
An analogue of a transistor, you need to look on the Internet, but in general I have a lot of junk, I remove it from dead boards, and where the diode is located - I won’t tell you at face value, but in general it looks like there really is a short circuit somewhere. Try the transformer, maybe there really is a short circuit on it, although usually there is pulsation, it doesn’t look like it. Something here smacks of a processor failure, and why is there a ripple coming from the transformer without holding the board in your hands? It’s difficult to advise anything. Try changing the zener diode with the transistor
I figured out the diode, d9 according to the diagram, I changed the zener diode, unfortunately I can’t select a transistor from what I have
Without him, there is simply no point in continuing to drip, it is quite possible that he may be lying.
I completely removed T1, same thing.
Master. Remove the transformer, but in general I already wrote that it looks like the microcircuit has been punctured. After such a blow to the brain, it’s rare that they survive, and it turns out that the phase almost directly hits the mikruhu. Today they brought Indesit to me with the same problem, the heating element exploded, the owner called the repairman, he said that the module was dead. The rest of the story is this: the client decided to do the repairs himself, changed the heating element and the control module, in short, he says that it’s the same garbage again, that nothing works and nothing burns. I took off the back cover, and there the ground was connected to the heating element, but I didn’t look at what kind of board it was (Arcadia or EVO-2), I was in a hurry. On Tuesday I'll throw it on the stand, maybe I'll dig up something there, the breakdown is basically identical. But I think that I will have to change the microcontroller or the entire module. In general, I'll watch it on Tuesday
I replaced the t1 with kt3102b, the power supply started working after removing the microprocessor. Brain dead, topic closed
In principle, this is to be expected
All the buttons on the Indesit washing machine flashed
To begin with, I want to warn you that I only provide proven material; the breakdown that will be discussed in this article can be easily fixed by replacing several containers. If in your case this did not help or you have other problems with the control module, I am unlikely to be able to help you. The fact is that the brains of a washing machine are a rather complex part, and even if you see that some diode or resistor has burned out, this does not mean that replacing it will make the unit work. The failure of one part often leads to a problem with other components, so before you rush into the module, think carefully about whether you have the skills that are needed for this procedure or not, because this spare part costs a lot of money. Next I will speak in question-answer language, those who follow my blog remember that there was a forum on it and this article was written based on one of the topics of this forum
The essence of the problem is that I have an Indesit washing machine and for no reason at all the display panel on it blinks, that is, the lights above the buttons blink quickly, quickly, like color music. I looked in the instructions, there’s nothing like that, I went through all the error codes and couldn’t find anything.
Apparently, the power supply in your washing machine, or more precisely in the control unit, has failed. Remove the control unit, if you have a horizontal-loading washing machine, then it is located in the lower left corner of your SMA, when viewed from behind, in the vertical lines at the top under the control panel. You will need to remove the module from the plastic box and inspect the containers for swelling. I think this will help you. Good luck
Thanks for the advice, I'll try it now. I removed the board, it was quite difficult, I had to unscrew the hatch at the back of the washing machine, it is attached with six screws and tried to get it out, but nothing worked, I couldn’t disconnect the wires. As a result, I put the machine on its side, on the side where the powder is poured, although the floor was flooded with water, I had to first drain the water from the washing machine. In short, when I put it on its side, it was only then that I easily disconnected the wires. I wrote this to those who will remove the control module themselves. I just pulled the board out of the box and, in fact, two of the containers were swollen, now I’ll remove them from the receiver and solder them here. I think I'll post the results in an hour.
Fast guy, I didn’t even have time to say “A”, but he had already dismantled the washing machine. Be careful not to confuse the polarity on these capacitors; it often happens that out of ignorance people install them in vain, and as a result the display panel may burn out. be careful
Strike iron without leaving the site. Hooray, it worked, the washing machine washes like a sweetie. I wonder how much money I saved. Thank you for your work, I don’t know how to thank you, I just say thank you
I am very glad that what I advised helped you. After this article was published, a washing machine came into my workshop with a similar problem; all the display buttons on the control panel were also blinking. The video I made can be seen below.
How to fix an Indesit machine yourself
Next we will talk about repairing the Indesit washing machine with our own hands. We will give advice with photos and videos, and step by step consider all the work that you can do without the help of a specialist.
Checking and replacing the heating element
It doesn't take much effort to detect problems associated with a burnt-out heater. Problems with the heater can be identified by a number of signs:
- In the vast majority of cases, the Indesit machine itself informs the owner about the breakdown of the heating element. Error F07 is displayed on the screen, or the 1st, 2nd and 3rd indicators are flashing.
- Indirect signs will also indicate its breakdown. So, the powder may not dissolve during washing because the water is not heated. 20 minutes after starting the program, touch the hatch: if it is cold, it means the heating element is not working.
To find, check and remove the heating element, proceed as follows:
- Take a suitable screwdriver and unscrew the back panel, which is usually secured with four bolts.
- At the bottom of the tank you will see 2 contacts protruding from its wall. This is the heater shank - the heating element itself is located under the drum. Remove the wiring from the heater and the sensor (located inside the heater).
- Take a tester and take measurements - place the probes against the contacts. If the device shows a value in the region of 20-40 Ohms, then the heater is in order. If the value is 0, then the heating element is closed, and 1 or ∞ indicates a break in the heater.
- At the same time, check whether the heating element is breaking through to the housing. To do this, turn on the buzzer mode on the tester. Place the probes like this: one to the contact, the other to the body. If everything is in order, then the tester works quietly, if there is a breakdown, it will beep.
- Next, remove the old heating element, even if the tester readings are normal. To do this, unscrew the central fastener by unscrewing the nut. Take out the seal.
- Inspect the heating element. If there is a thick layer of scale or dark spots on it, then the element 100% needs to be replaced.
Important! Buy a new heating element together with a rubber seal to tightly install and secure the heater.
- Before installing the heating element, clean the place in which it is attached from scale and debris. If this is difficult to do by hand, use a wire hook or bottle brush.
- Install a new heating element, connect the wires and assemble the machine.
Replacing the surge protector
Malfunctions of Indesit washing machines and their elimination are a problem for many users, especially due to manufacturing defects. But if the filter is not defective, it means that it was “finished off” by unfavorable operating conditions - high humidity in the room or constant power surges in the network.
While people are thinking about how to protect the filter from unstable voltage in our homes, we will tell you how to carry out the repair yourself. Proceed as follows:
- Remove the top cover by unscrewing the bolts that secure it.
- The filter is located on the back of the power cord, like a plug - only inside the machine.
- Once you have found the filter, unscrew the screw that holds it in place.
- The part cannot be repaired. You need to replace the element by purchasing an original part.
From user experience:
The owner of SM Indesit came to the workshop, already desperate to change anything: according to him, he had already changed the filter 3 times. His working capacity was enough for 5 months at most. The technician examined the machine and said that the filter was burning out due to high humidity. He installed a new part, and treated the contacts going to it with silicone sealant. The lucky owner has been using the machine for the second year.
Important! If you decide to follow this experience, dry, clean and wipe them before applying sealant to the contacts.
The machine does not wash according to the program
If the machine loses its program, starts washing for longer than the allotted time, without switching to rinse or spin mode, there may be problems with the dial, with draining, heating the water, or overloading the drum.
- If there is underfilling, clean all existing filters and hoses, check the water pressure in the system and whether the fill valve is working.
- If water comes in but doesn't go out, clear the blockage in the drain hose and check the pump.
- If heating is insufficient, pay attention to the heating element and temperature sensor.
If this is definitely not the case, then the software module is buggy and you need to find out why (more on this below).
Causes of control module failure
The main reasons why this part of a washing machine fails are:
- Manufacturing defects . This happens extremely rarely, but it still happens even with well-known brands. Factory defects can be determined visually, for example, in the presence of poor-quality soldering of contacts, as well as by flux deposits and peeling tracks. If the unit is under warranty, then you should not dismantle the control module yourself, but it is better to immediately contact the warranty service to replace it. The defect appears quite quickly within a few weeks after the start of its use,
- Sudden changes in the power supply. Perhaps this is the main reason why the control module of a washing machine fails. The voltage level that must be observed is usually indicated in the operating instructions for the unit,
- Failure to comply with the rules of technical operation of the washing machine,
- Water or moisture entering the electronic system . Many washing machine manufacturers strive to eliminate the possibility of moisture getting into the electronic board. Quite often, to achieve these goals, the control unit is filled with compound and the board becomes sealed. If you start the washing machine with a “wet” circuit board, the control of the unit will be blocked.
Water most often gets into the control module when the machine is operating in emergency mode or when it is moved.
Also, this unit may fail due to rodents and insects getting into it. In this case, repairing the control module yourself will involve cleaning and drying the electronic board.
How to replace the SMA control module (video tutorial)
How can you tell if a module is broken?
The most basic problem is to understand whether the control module is actually broken and needs repair, or whether one of the units of the washing machine is actually broken, and it is this that creates the appearance of damage to the electronics. Resolving this issue is of priority importance, because if you start immediately repairing or changing the module without sufficient grounds, you will throw money down the drain and the problem will not be solved.
DIY repair
Independent research
You can diagnose it yourself.
If we consider the control module of the Ardo washing machine, testing is carried out as follows:
- All fluid is removed from the machine and the tank is emptied.
- The program selector rotates vertically downwards.
- The temperature should be at 0.
- All control buttons are pressed at once. This will put the machine into self-diagnosis mode.
You need to understand that the situation with the breakdown of the electronic heart does not at all mean the acquisition of new equipment. There is a high probability that it is possible to repair control modules of washing machines.
Removing the panel
You need to know that the board in the machine is fixed on plates that are attached to the case.
There are models of cars where this part is held on by screws. To repair the control module of a washing machine with your own hands, you need to get it out, which is very easy to do. Simply remove the front cover or panel.
We fix breakdowns
You can solve minor problems yourself, for example:
- Sensor failure due to blockage in the adjustment knob. The repair consists of disassembling the regulator and cleaning it.
- You can also clean carbon deposits on the filter yourself.
- Soap residue disables the hatch lock. The problem is solved by cleaning.
- The car refuses to start. To repair, you need to disassemble the equipment and tighten the pulley to tighten the transmission belts.
- The control module may block the operation of the machine due to a lack of grounding.
- You can change the capacitor. Basically, this part is installed on a block with filters and cannot be repaired. If it burns out, it must be replaced. It is not difficult to replace it. If you have the skill to work with a blowtorch. The capacitor is soldered only to the positive electrode.
- Resistors often burn out and require replacement. You can't do without a tester. First-order boards have a resistance of 0 Ohm with an overload of 2 A, and for the second, the overload range should not exceed 3 to 5 A. If the indicators do not match, the resistors are resoldered.
To solve other problems with the control unit, you will need the help of a specialist or special skills.
When household appliances are under warranty, then, of course, you don’t need to worry about how to repair the control module of a washing machine, but immediately contact a service center.
What to do if the Indesit washing machine is under warranty?
If the Indesit washing machine gives an error indicating that the control board is broken, you can try to reboot the equipment. Perhaps there was simply a malfunction due to a voltage drop.
To do this proceed as follows:
- turn the programmer knob to the neutral position;
- press and hold the “Start/Pause” button for 5 seconds;
- leave the machine turned off for 15 minutes;
- are trying to get it working again.
If no changes have occurred, you must contact a service center that provides warranty service for the purchased household appliances. You must take with you a warranty card confirming your right to free service. The service must perform an examination, determine the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it.
If no more than 15 days have passed since the date of purchase, the buyer has the right to demand a refund or replace the machine with a similar one. However, if the equipment was purchased via the Internet, this period is reduced to one week.
The warranty period for the Indesit washing machine is 1 year. To be able to receive service, before purchasing you need to make sure that all stamps are affixed to the coupon.
Sometimes it happens that there is no official service center in the city. In this case, you need to go to the store with a broken machine. The seller is obliged to take the equipment for examination. In return, the buyer is issued an acceptance certificate with stamps, date and signature of the responsible person.
If the store refuses to accept the goods, then you must go to court.
Programmer malfunction
What characterizes a programmer failure?
The machine refuses to turn on, but the electrical network is fine.- The equipment turns on, but there is no response to the timer control.
- There is no washing time on the electronic display.
- The indicators are flashing and there is an error.
- The wash starts, but the program and wash time go up or down.
Programmer parts may break. The mechanical programmer of a washing machine consists of:
- synchromotor;
- contacts;
- cams responsible for the operation of the synchromotor;
- gearbox;
- gears.
How to repair?
If the warranty period of the Indesit washing machine has expired, you will have to repair the control board at your own expense. This is a delicate job , which can only be done independently if the person has knowledge in the field of electronics.
How to disassemble the device?
In modern Indesit machines with vertical loading, the control module is located in the upper part, under the panel. To get to it, you will need to remove the cover. This is not difficult to do. It is enough to unscrew the bolts located on the back wall of the device.
For horizontal loading machines, the board is located in the lower left corner when viewed from the rear. To get to it, you will have to unscrew not only the back and top walls, but also remove the hatch, which is attached to 6 screws.
It is most convenient to get to the board if you carefully lay the device on its side (on the side on which the powder tray is located). Only after this will it be possible to disconnect all the wires and remove the board.
Before starting work, you need to turn off the power to the machine and turn off the water supply valve. Only after this can you begin dismantling. This article will tell you how to remove the cover.
How to remove and diagnose the block?
Before you remove the board, you need to photograph the way it is connected to the various wires. This is done in order to prevent errors during the reassembly process.
It is difficult to determine exactly where the defect is located, unless the elements have been burned out. Sometimes the soldering of diodes and other small elements is broken.
For diagnostics and repairs, you will need the following tools and accessories:
- multimeter;
- soldering iron;
- tin;
- rosin;
- solder.
It’s good if you have at hand a diagram of the control unit for a specific model of the Indesit washing machine.
Repair work
You can repair the following items yourself:
Capacitors. They are responsible for voltage stabilization.
The fact that one of them is out of order will be indicated by its swelling. If all capacitors are of normal size, you need to test them with a multimeter (1 – a break has occurred, 0 – a short circuit). If a failed element is detected, it is replaced.- Resistors. There are resistors with a resistance of 8 Ohms and up to 2A (first order) and with a resistance of 10 Ohms and 5 A (second order). If during diagnostics it is discovered that these data do not correspond to the required values, the resistors are changed.
- Thyristor switch . Most often it breaks due to a sudden voltage drop. Diagnosis begins only after checking all capacitors. First, first-order diodes ring (normally, the voltage should not exceed 20 W). The voltage on the filter should not exceed 12 volts.
- Trigger. Its voltage should be about 12 W and its resistance should be about 20 Ohms.
- Board firmware . To complete the work, you will need a programmer adapter, with which you can gain access to the module software. A professional programmer costs about 3,000 rubles, a simpler version will cost 500 rubles. You will also need proprietary Indesit software and drivers. They can be found on the official website).
When is self-repair possible?
Do-it-yourself electronic board repair without the involvement of specialists is possible in case of the following breakdowns:
- Malfunction of control sensors. As a rule, this breakdown occurs due to clogged or greasy contacts in the adjustment knob. Signs of damage:
- Malfunction of the programmer sensors. Mostly occurs due to clogging and clogging of the contacts in the adjustment knob. Main symptoms: the regulator rotates quite tightly, there is no distinct click when it rotates. To eliminate the breakdown, clean the regulator knob.
- Presence of soot. As a rule, this applies to old units. Carbon deposits usually accumulate on the filter power coils. You can fix the problem with a brush or a regular rag,
- Malfunction of the sunroof lock sensor. Mostly occurs due to its being washed out or salted. To solve the problem, cleaning it is also enough,
- The machine does not start or the drum speed is unstable. To eliminate this damage, it is necessary to tighten the pulley,
- The metal part of the washing machine is electrocuted , as a result of which the control module can block the operation of the unit. To solve this problem, you should ground the washing machine.
If the above breakdowns occur, you can repair the control module of your washing machine yourself. This will give you the opportunity to save your family budget with little time investment.
DIY washing machine repair
Dismantling, as well as repairing the module, is not particularly difficult. All you need to do is remove the front panel and get to the board installation location. After which it can be easily removed.
Modern modifications of washing machines are designed in such a way that the terminals of the control device cannot be installed in the wrong position, which greatly simplifies the task. However, when performing dismantling work, you must remember what is connected where, so that you can later put everything back together without any problems.
For greater reliability, you can photograph the process of dismantling the board. As a rule, the electronic board can be easily removed after removing the fastening elements (screws, bolts and fixing strips).
However, there are times when it is better to entrust the repair of the control board to a professional.
The main signs that it is better to contact a specialist are:
- on the electronic board there are places of discoloration in the form of scorch marks and darkened tracks,
- capacitor caps are broken (usually in the place of a cross-shaped notch) or clearly convex,
- darkening of the main processor mounting area,
- areas of burnt-out coating are visualized on the damping coils,
- The legs of the microcircuit have a non-uniform color.
If you have the above symptoms of a breakdown and have no experience in eliminating them, it is better to entrust the solution to this problem to a professional.
How to replace the electronic module of a washing machine yourself?
In modern devices, the board responsible for controlling the operation of the device can be connected separately, together with programmers or electronically; the latter option is the most common. Replacing the electronic control module of a washing machine with your own hands is quite possible; you will need to perform the following steps:
- Open the device case. The electronics unit is located at the top of the machine; to get to it, you need to dismantle the top cover or remove the front panel with control buttons: the exact method depends on the specific model and brand of household appliance.
- Remove the board. It is not difficult to remove the control unit, but it is advisable to photograph it before disconnecting it: this will allow you to correctly connect the board after replacement, correctly connecting the terminals. Before removal, it is necessary to remove the clamps: they are strips that hold the part and are secured with bolts or small self-tapping screws.
As a rule, there are traces of damage on the surface of the part: scorch marks, traces of rust, mechanical defects, burnout areas in the area of coils or capacitors. Experts recommend removing the board yourself if the warranty has expired, as well as if complex breakdowns are identified, after which it is easier to replace the assembled element. Installation of a new part is carried out in accordance with the diagram; After assembling the device, you need to test the machine by running a test wash.
Malfunctions of Indesit (Ariston) boards
- The washing machine does not turn on:
EVO-II models wisl 103, wisl 83, wisl 82, wisl 102:
The power supply provides voltages of 5 V and 12 V to power the elements and components that make up the controller. The IP includes a 22uF capacitor at 400V, an optocoupler type SF46156-2, diode 1 and 2. Microcircuit HD6433662С01Н with firmware.
Arcadia board - models (WIN - WIB):
The SMPS produces 12V. It consists of: protective diode D1, output rectifier and filter D2 and C1, pulse transformer, integrated controller. A voltage of 3.3V is used to power the processor.
Causes and prevention of breakdown
The control board in an Indesit washing machine most often fails due to the following reasons:
- A machine was purchased with a manufacturing defect.
- Voltage fluctuations occur frequently.
- Water got on the electronics.
- One or more sensors have failed.
- The machine is infested with insects.
To prevent damage, you need to install a voltage stabilizer and connect the device to the network via an adapter. Insects must be removed from the house, and water must not be allowed to get on the board.
In what cases does the electronic board require replacement?
As a rule, this element fails due to a short circuit, a burnt capacitor, resistors, triggers, or in the event of a short circuit in the thyristor unit. The presence of problems is indicated by the following signs that need to be taken into account when diagnosing:
- Problems with spinning clothes during the washing process.
- The indicators on the panel flash or remain lit continuously and do not turn off when the control buttons are pressed.
- The washing cycle is too long, the device stops mid-process.
- Bearing or drum noise.
- The water drains immediately after the machine fills with it.
- Problems starting the selected washing program.
- Insufficient or no water heating.
- Problems with drum rotation.